Iceland is one of the most fascinating travel destinations in the world – a place where fire, ice, wind, water and surreal volcanic landscapes come together in a way you won’t find anywhere else. Volcanoes, geysers, endless lava fields, black beaches, glaciers, roaring waterfalls and natural hot springs make it a dream for nature lovers, photographers and adventurers.

For motorhome and road trip travelers, Iceland is spectacular – but also one of the most challenging destinations in Europe. The weather can change every few minutes, many roads are unpaved, and the infrastructure is thinner than in mainland Europe. Wild camping is heavily regulated, and the overall cost level is high.

Still: exploring Iceland’s Ring Road in a campervan, driving under the Midnight Sun in summer or beneath dancing Northern Lights in winter, is an unforgettable experience. Iceland is not a “beginner-friendly” destination – but if you love remote, dramatic nature, it is unmatched.

2.1 Ferries to Iceland

The only car ferry to Iceland is run by Smyril Line:

• Route: Hirtshals (Denmark) → Tórshavn (Faroe Islands) → Seyðisfjörður (Iceland)

• Duration: 48–72 hours

• Booking: essential months ahead (especially for summer)

• Price: €800–2,500 per trip depending on vehicle & cabin type

The journey is comfortable and ideal for long-term trips, but also very expensive – especially with larger motorhomes. If you have enough time, it’s highly recommended to spend a few extra days exploring the Faroe Islands.

2.3 Flying & Renting a Camper

Most visitors fly to Iceland. Keflavík Airport near Reykjavík connects Iceland to all major European hubs. Campervan rental companies are located directly at the airport, offering everything from simple vans to fully equipped 4x4 motorhomes.

A “Fly & Camp” trip is ideal: the vehicles are well-suited for Icelandic roads, and you avoid the costly ferry crossing.

3.1 Documents

Iceland is part of the Schengen Area. EU citizens can enter with an ID card or passport.

Bringing pets is extremely difficult: Iceland has some of the strictest animal import laws in the world, and pets require special permits. Spontaneous trips with animals are practically impossible.

3.2 Vehicle Regulations

Rental vehicles in Iceland are well-prepared for local conditions: insulated, winter-ready and robust.

For your own motorhome, the usual EU rules apply: warning vest, warning triangle, and vehicle documents. There are no environmental zones or warning panels.

What matters most are Iceland’s road categories:

• F-roads (highland tracks) are only allowed with a true 4x4

• Most are open only from June to September

• River crossings can be deep and dangerous

Insurance often excludes damage on highland roads and river crossings

Driving in Iceland is an adventure. The Ring Road (Route 1) is paved and easy to drive, but many side roads are gravel. Potholes, loose stones and strong winds can make driving tricky.

4.1 F-roads in Iceland – What You Need to Know

Iceland’s F-roads lead deep into the highlands through lava fields, mountains and volcanic deserts. They’re breathtaking – but also technical and risky.

Where regular campers are not allowed

Normal campervans and two-wheel-drive vehicles are never allowed on F-roads. Routes like F35 (Kjölur) and F550 (Kaldidalur) require 4x4, and unmarked tracks are always prohibited.

4x4 isn’t always enough

Not every 4x4 is suitable for every route.

• Some F-roads are fine with a smaller 4x4 camper.

• Others require a high-clearance Superjeep.

If you’re unsure, consider booking a guided highland tour and leaving your camper safely at a campground.

River crossings

River crossings are the biggest hazard on F-roads:

• If a river looks too deep, turn around.

• Any damage caused by a river crossing is never covered by insurance.

• Drive through slowly (about 5 km/h) and avoid shifting gears.

Strict no-offroad rule

Off-road driving is absolutely illegal in Iceland. The vegetation is extremely fragile and takes decades to recover.

• Never leave the marked track

• Never drive around puddles or snowfields

• When in doubt, get out and look for the correct line instead of improvising

This protects the environment and prevents severe fines.

The weather is unpredictable: sun, rain, fog and storms can alternate within an hour.
In winter, many roads close or become accessible only to experienced drivers.

Speeding is strictly enforced, especially around Reykjavík.

Important: Sheep roam freely – even on the roads.

5.1 Campgrounds

Iceland has many campgrounds, usually simple but located in breathtaking scenery: near waterfalls, beaches, lava fields or hot springs.

• Season: June–September

• Price: €15–25 per person

• Charging: usually per person, not per vehicle

• Winter: only a few campgrounds stay open

5.2 Wild Camping – Strictly Regulated

Wild camping with motorhomes or campervans is generally prohibited.

Since 2015, you may only stay overnight if:

• you have explicit permission from the landowner

• or the area is officially marked for overnight vehicle use

Sleeping at viewpoints, along the road or in nature is forbidden. Controls are frequent, and fines can be high.

When is it tolerated?

Even in winter, the ban still applies.
However, in the off-season (October–April), some large parking areas (trailheads, geothermal zones) may tolerate a one-night stay, as long as:

• no signs prohibit it

• you don’t show camping behavior (chairs, awnings, cooking outside)

Realistic expectation

• Summer: wild camping = almost impossible

• Winter: sometimes tolerated, but on marked lots and at your own risk

Iceland is not a wild camping country – plan to use campgrounds.

Iceland’s infrastructure is basic but functional.

Dump stations for grey water and toilets exist mainly:

• on campgrounds

• in larger towns

• at dedicated dump points along the Ring Road

Supermarkets (Bonus, Krónan, Netto) are well stocked but expensive.
Fresh food is costly, so many travelers cook in their camper.

Fuel stations can be sparse in remote regions – always refuel early, especially in the Westfjords and the East.

Icelandic tap water is among the purest in the world and free everywhere.

Iceland is one of Europe’s most expensive destinations.

• Camping: €15–25 per person

• Supermarkets: higher than Germany

• Diesel/petrol: significantly more expensive

• Restaurants: €20–50 per dish

Iceland is a credit-card country.
You will pay for almost everything by card – even tiny amounts like a coffee or a campground fee. Cash is barely used, and many travelers spend their entire trip without withdrawing a single Icelandic króna.

The main travel season runs from June to August. During these months, the weather is the most stable, temperatures are at their warmest (around 13°C), and the days are extremely long. If you want to explore the highlands on your own, this is the ideal time – many F-roads are only open in summer.

However, summer is also the busiest and most expensive period:

• Campgrounds fill up quickly

• Popular sights can be crowded

• Rental prices for campers and cars increase significantly

Iceland is very safe. Crime is minimal.

The real dangers are nature-related:

• sudden weather changes

• extreme winds

• icy roads

• river crossings in the highlands

Always:

• check weather (vedur.is)

• check road conditions (road.is)

• carry extra food & water

• never drive in storms (gusts can flip vehicles)

Healthcare is modern but expensive → travel insurance is essential.